Planning an Ireland road trip, but a little nervous about it? The good news is that renting a car and driving around is not as complicated as you may think. When traveling through Ireland, you have options! You can take a guided tour, hire a private driver, take a train, or self-drive. I opted to self-drive simply because I wanted more control over where I could go and what I could see. There are few rail options in Ireland, and while I love a good guided tour, I wanted to experience driving. It is an experience, that is for sure!
I selected the city centre rental location just around the block from our hotel, The Gresham. I didn’t want to drive around Dublin (you don’t either, trust me on this), so I picked up our rental car the morning we were departing for Killarney. There were many jokes about Americans being the worst drivers while driving around Ireland, so be prepared for some giggles. Here is what I learned:
Driving on the left side of the road requires adjustments in how you sit, how you think, and the way that you navigate. The driver sits on the right side of the car, shifts with the left hand (in manual cars), and navigates roundabouts clockwise. Give yourself time to adapt in less congested areas before tackling busy roads. I found that my line of sight was off, and I continually veered off the left side of the road at first.
Irish country roads are notably narrower than what most visitors expect. Many rural routes lack shoulders, feature stone walls or hedgerows directly alongside the pavement, and are sometimes narrow to single-lane passages even when accommodating two-way traffic. Reduce your speed, use passing bays when available, and be prepared to reverse if meeting oncoming traffic. I nearly hit a stone wall and had to come to a complete stop a few times to allow others through a two-lane road with parked cars. It requires patience and different thinking as you drive around Ireland.
Road signage in Ireland uses the metric system, with speed limits in kilometers per hour. Roads are classified as Motorways (M), National Roads (N), and Regional Roads (R). Be sure that you rent a car with a navigation system. You do not want to mess with your phone and trust that it is updated.
Ireland loves roundabouts, and you'll encounter many throughout your journey. Always yield to vehicles already in the roundabout (approaching from your right), signal your exit, and stay in the appropriate lane based on your exit position. Larger roundabouts often have multiple lanes, so position yourself correctly before entering. This is where your friends or family in the car can help you navigate. My friend would reiterate what the navigation told me: "You’ll enter after this red car, and you are going to go left and stay in the outside lane.” This was invaluable and extremely helpful.
The most crucial tip is that journeys take longer than mapping apps suggest. What looks like a short distance can take significantly more time due to narrow roads, scenic stops, weather conditions, and occasional sheep crossings. Add at least 25% to estimated driving times for your planned itinerary, mainly if you drive around the Ring of Kerry and Cliffs of Moher. We found quite a bit of traffic right near Adare on our way to Killarney. I also noticed that drivers in Ireland obey the speed limit (unlike in the US) and are generous in giving space. I never felt pressured or afraid.
Lastly, consider renting a comfortable car to drive around Ireland. You do not want to be cramped in a tiny vehicle if you have long drives. I drove the equivalent of a Ford Edge, which was the perfect size to hold our luggage and three adults. It was comfortable and never felt too big while driving or parking.
Driving around Ireland will provide you the best experience to stop and explore at your own pace. If your driving experience is like mine, it will also offer lots of jokes and giggles after the trip. For example, when I was returning the car, I hit a garbage can on the side of the road (that left-hand sight line ugh) and scratched the mirror. Then, when I took a taxi the next day back to the airport to depart, the taxi driver asked me if I scratched my mirror. I said, “How did you know?!” He laughed and told me that all Americans scratch their mirrors.
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